Fusion Food: A tale of two cuisines
London's diversity and its ever-changing palate
Credit: Jade McDowell
Credit: Jade McDowell
It was late March inside a dimly-lit crowded cocktail bar in South London where a cross-cultural medley was being cooked up in the kitchen.
For two weeks dishes such as ‘jerk pork wontons’ and 'brown stew braised noodles' could be found on the menu at Jazu bar. The concept ‘China meets Jamaica’ was the creation of multi-disciplinary artist and chef, Cat Poon brought to life alongside her collective COA and chef Luke Diboll.
Cat - a born and bred South Londoner of Chinese descent - was stunned by the success of her first chef residency which gained over 1,000 instagram likes, a repost from Grime MC and producer Wiley and broke Jazu’s food sales record.
It’s unsurprising that the fusion of two very influential British immigrant cuisines had so much appeal. Cat owed her inspiration to the myriad of cultural influences she grew up surrounded by. Memories of diversity, of sharing cultural dishes with friends have shaped her - just as it has shaped London’s food scene.
“There's just an energy about London, and I think that's very much reflected in the food culture.”
Credit: Jade McDowell
Credit: Jade McDowell
Credit: Jade McDowell
Credit: Jade McDowell
Credit: Jade McDowell
Credit: Jade McDowell
Credit: Jade McDowell
Credit: Jade McDowell
Undeniably, London’s energy is rooted in its diversity. According to the 2021 Census there are over 300 languages spoken in the capital, with 46.2% of the population identifying as non-white -higher than any other region in England and Wales.
This year, Tripadvisor’s Travellers’ Choice Awards, crowned London the best city in the world for food. Whilst Holafly ranked London 4th most diverse food city in the world, with 74% of its restaurant serving international food. boasts a wide a range of culinary diversity with an offering of 123 different cuisines.
This eclectic array of cultures is a recipe for a simmering border-defying melting pot on which successive generations of Londoners are being raised on. In these conditions fusion cuisine, once a dirty word in the culinary space, is bound to be a recipe for success.
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Made with canva
Made with canva
Made with canva
What the f (usion)?
Fusion cuisine is a concept which marries together techniques and flavours of different cuisines, regions or ethnic groups. The term entered the Oxford dictionary in 2002 signifying its prevalence in contemporary society.
In the 1970’s and 80’s fusion was introduced to curious diners in high end restaurants. Inspired by their travels and a newly globalised world, chefs brought innovative concepts such as Wolfgang Puck who popularised A sian fusion in California .
By the 90s and early 2000s’ fusion cuisine had morphed into a commercial phenomenon. It was this era that stained the reputation of the innovative culinary genre with critics rolling their eyes at sloppy attempts to combine incompatible ingredients and flavours.
However, fusion is nothing new - for millenia ingredients and culinary methods have been shared between cultures through migration, trade and imperialism.
When working on her residency menu Cat uncovered historical ties between Jamaica and China that linked back to her own family. Chinese indentured labourers began arriving in Jamaica in the 19th century, settling and forming their own commmunities an . Whilst the fusion of Jamaican and Chinese cuisine already exists, her intention was to play around with the two flavour profiles in a different and playful manner .
Much of what we understand today as ‘traditional’ cuisine, has been developed as a result of different cultures interacting and imprinting on each other.
“Fusion gets kind of like a bad rep [...] it's not proper, it's not traditional, it's not authentic. But so many recipes that we view as traditional or authentic, even that wasn't necessarily traditional. It's all kind of like a time capsule of the time of when people were kind of taking it over, or like readapting to where they were.”
Today a scroll through your social media algorithm will present you with gastronomical mash-ups around London ranging from masala pizza to jerk kebabs, all products of different immigrant communities adapting to the ingredients and inspiration around them.
The multicultural metropolis
In Harrow, North West London, there is a 'chippy’ like no other, where you can order a side of plantain with your Fish and Chips or jollof rice alongside a jerk sea bream.
“ We do fish and chips with flavour”
describes Every Fish Bar’s (@everyfishbar) owner Mohammed Gbadamosi who incorporates his West African roots and the wider Black British identity into his menu.
The pandemic pushed Mohammed to throw himself into his passion for food after a 15 year career in care led to him experiencing burnout. For years Mohammed would drive far just to get a good fish and chips when he finally decided to do it himself.
Through research Mohammed discovered the relationship between fish and chip shops and immigrant communities. The first shop was established in London’s East End by an Eastern European Jew 1860. Today you can find many fish and chip shops run by Greek-Cypriot, Turkish or Chinese families who put their own cultural spin alongside the traditional menu.
This inspired Mohammed to make his mark with his menu combining West African and Caribbean flavours. He deliberately considers what dishes have a sense of familiarity for his diverse audience and sit well beside the fish and chips concept.
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Credit: Jade McDowell
Credit: Jade McDowell
Credit: Jade McDowell
Credit: Jade McDowell
Credit: Jade McDowell
Credit: Jade McDowell
Credit: Jade McDowell
Credit: Jade McDowell
To Mohammed, fusion is merely a reflection of a diverse modern Britain where different palettes and flavours exist alongside each other evolving London’s story.
And that story has viral appeal, as food influencers have traveled from all corners of London to try and showcase Mohammed's food. Even American tourists who have seen Every Fish Bar online build the trip to the London suburb into their travel itineraries to get a taste.
The social media effect
Today, food content creators have more influence over the food scene than critics. Through visual storytelling, in the form of reels and short-form content food bloggers spark curiosity in their audiences and widen their palettes. A study by the Independent revealed that 72% of people chose where they dine based on social media signifying the huge role it plays in how Londoner’s consume and discover food.
“ Social media rewards novelty, and a dish that combines two recognisable cuisines is instantly more clickable than something familiar.”
Before moving from South Africa, Autumn had heard all of the ‘bland food tropes’ England had to offer. She never imagined that London’s culinary scene would eventually inspire her to create a social media accounts (@autumntait) documenting all of the food she was enjoying and wanted to share with friends. What began as a personal archive became something bigger, leading to the creation of her app ‘Rec’d’ where users can map all their dream food destinations across the city.
Nearly ten years after her arrival to the city, she says: “London is one of those rare cities where, in a single week, you can eat your way through every cuisine imaginable, without travelling more than a few tube stops”
When asked how she felt about fusion cuisine she said: “At its best [it’s] two culinary traditions in genuine conversation with each other, not a novelty mash-up. When chefs understand both cuisines deeply, the results can be delicious. ”
Foodie and a proud Londoner, Lili Delicious, shares similar excitement towards fusion cuisine, she says: “Fusion food can create viral moments, either by being controversial or just really creative!”
Lili's account (@a_dishdelish) account features videos of her ranking London’s top viral spots asking ‘ Is it worth the hype?’ and sharing her food adventurers with her followers.
Counting herself lucky to have grown up in London, surrounded by a food scene she describes as: “diverse, rich and limitless!”, Lili says:
"London is widely considered one of the world's most multi-cultural and diverse cities, and you can absolutely see that within the food scene. From localised diaspora communities, where local authentic cuisine is everywhere, to how this has translated into mainstream London food culture and mainstream central London restaurants."
She points to another chef residency at Jazu bar, 'Chieto' by Marta Sandini a Chinese-Italian menu as one of her favourite experiences of fusion cuisine.
“ I think fusion food has evolved from gimmicky, there are now highly rated London restaurants that have established fusion food as something high quality.”
Kat Gill started her TikTok and Instagram page (@thebesteatsldn) because her camera has always ‘eaten first’. Kat’s London roots mean that her tastebuds have always been curious, she said: “ London has SO many [ restaurants and cuisines] just on your doorstep waiting to be discovered.”
When asked separately what their favourite fusion spots in the city are, both Kat and Autumn name Osteria Angelina and its sister venue Angelina. The East London-based fusion restaurant has gained considerable traction online offering restaurant goers ‘ Italian food with Japanese Ingredients and influences’.
A scroll through social media will convince you that fusion certainly isn’t dead in London. But in a city over-saturated with daring food venues many diners are looking for something different to experience in a city.
Kat says: “Every cuisine has been covered by every restaurant, so what then? How do you stand out from the crowd?”
Cultural collision
This question rings true for best friends Simmz and Ify who started a London based supper club (@simmzsupperclub) in 2025 with an afro fusion twist.
Simmz, from Dublin and Ify born in Nigeria and raised in Sheffield, know too well how over-crowded and also how broad London’s food scene is compared to other cities.
Previously serving dishes such as jollof arancini and puff puff tiramisu, their seasonal menus are a fusion of their own Nigerian cuisine with Italian, Japanese and most recently Mexican.
Simmz supper club began with the hopes of encouraging connection around the dinner table. After a successful launch they decided to rebrand their supper club into something more intimate, now a ‘paired dining experience for couples.’
The supper club operates like an intimate pop-up restaurant currently only seating four couples at a time. Guests are given conversation cards to spark intimate connection and whilst they dive into the food their hosts, Ify and Simmz, move through the room interacting with guests and explaining the menu.
Credit: Simmzsupperclub
Credit: Simmzsupperclub
Credit: Simmzsupperclub
Credit: Simmzsupperclub
Credit: Simmzsupperclub
Credit: Simmzsupperclub
Credit: Simmzsupperclub
Credit: Simmzsupperclub
Credit: Simmzsupperclub
Credit: Simmzsupperclub
Credit: Simmzsupperclub
Credit: Simmzsupperclub
Their choices are deliberate, it's all about knowing which flavours go together. Behind the scenes there is a lot of trial and error combining cultural dishes they were raised on with techniques from other global cuisines: "food is so versatile, like, it can be enjoyed in so many different ways, and there's so many different things that we can do with it.”
" The beauty in Afro fusion food is that people are curious to explore a new culture.” says Ify.
The girls also cite social media as the reason why people are more open-minded and willing to try things they're not familiar with. For chef Simmz exploring a fusion menu is simply a playful way to express herself, she said: "I really see food as an art form. [...] it's not just something you eat.”
The supper club offers guests an experience they are not likely to find anywhere else with a menu to match.
The age-old question “what do you fancy?” has evolved alongside the diversity of the city morphing more appropriately into, where in the world would you like to go? In London, with one bite you can find yourself transported to the furthest reaches of the globe. Or if you like, two flavours can meet in your mouth in a sensory fusion of cultures.
