Thailand's food diplomacy serves up success - with a pinch of salt

Britain's love affair with Thai cuisine

The United Kingdom’s love of Thai food is undeniable. A recent YouGov survey polled Thai as one of Britain’s favourite cuisines, only behind Chinese, Indian and Italian food - which have long been established here.

Thai food has muscled its way into the UK’s extremely competitive hospitality sector, with more than 2,500 restaurants across the country. The Asian food market is estimated to be worth about £8.5 billion, which includes Thai establishments. 

What's more, Thailand's share in the industry is set to grow. "There is ongoing support from the Thai government to strengthen the reputation of Thai cuisine," Jirakarn Bejrajati, Minister for Commercial Affairs at the Thai Embassy says.

Statistics aside, perhaps Brits’ affection for the Southeast Asian cuisine is best understood through the relationship between traditional pubs and Thai kitchens. It’s estimated that a significant proportion of Thai restaurants are found in British boozers, and it's no wonder why considering the perfect marriage between thirst-quenching pints and sweet and spicy delicacies. Furthermore, it's cheaper for Thai entrepreneurs to take over a pub kitchen compared to opening up a restaurant.

So where has the demand for Thai food come from? With over one million British tourists visiting Thailand in 2025 alone, it's safe to assume that many return with a desire to replicate the culinary experience from their travels. “Thailand emerged as a staple backpacker destination for young Brits in the 1990s,” Philip Vogsted observes in the SOAS Spirit. “The Thai food trend took off in the UK around the same period.”

Furthermore, tourism numbers to Thailand have increased by 200% over the last 20 years, correlating with the increased access to Thai food worldwide.

Anya Tunchun, who works at Thai Kitchen in Twickenham, observes how many of their customers have been inspired to visit “The Land of Smiles” after falling for the delicious food. "One customer even walked me through her Thailand trip itinerary and the dishes she wanted to try!" Anya says.

Despite the success of Thailand’s gastro-diplomacy, there have been concerns about the authenticity of the Thai food being served up, both at home and abroad. “Foreigners can have a singular version of what Thai cuisine should look, taste, and smell like, which forces Thai restaurants to lean on cultural inaccuracies," writes Madeline Rae in Food Republic.

Chefs may be forced to switch out the more traditional fermented fish sauce in favour of the more widely known soy sauce, or reign back on the spices. One Reddit user expresses her disapproval in more undiplomatic terms: “Thai woman here. What the f**k us up with you in the UK all liking such sh**ty Pad Thai??”

The Thai government may only have itself to blame when it comes to authenticity worries. Since its inception in 2002, the Global Thai project has targeted culinary expansion in specific regions around the world. To achieve this, it has researched local tastes and adapted recipes to meet different palate preferences.

Some dishes - like Pad Thai - have got preferential treatment over others. The sweet and sour plate of noodles - although popular in Thailand - has been promoted as the “poster boy” for the cuisine instead of regional favourites like Pad Kaprow (Thai basil stir-fry), Som Tam (papaya salad) and Khao Soi (northern Thai curry noodle soup). 

Jirakarn Bejrajati, Minister for Commercial Affairs at the Royal Thai Embassy in London, spoke about the criticism of some Thai food found in the UK and elsewhere. “As Thai food travels abroad, it naturally adapts to local tastes, ingredient availability, and dietary preferences,” he says. “Some degree of adaptation is unavoidable and, in many ways, has helped Thai cuisine become more accessible and popular worldwide.”

The acknowledgment of the necessity to adapt is perhaps reflected in the Thai SELECT certification, which Jirakarn signposts me towards. The award - which over 100 Thai restaurants in the UK hold - determines authenticity by weighing up multiple factors including cultural context, rather than enforcing exact replication. “To safeguard authenticity, Thailand focuses on preserving core elements rather than enforcing rigid uniformity,” the minister adds.

Furthermore, Thai ingredients including curry pastes and fresh herbs and spices including galangal, lemongrass and tamarind have become widely accessible internationally. As a result, Thai kitchens - and even amateur chefs - have been able to replicate authentic Thai food. In fact, the Thai SELECT certificate also recognises certain meal kits and sauces designed for domestic consumption. “The increased accessibility of ingredients enables restaurants abroad to preserve traditional flavours rather than relying on substitutes,” Jirakarn adds.